You've identified that your roof needs repairs and you're planning to install three new Velux windows in the room-in-roof. These works are separate from the energy efficiency measures in this plan, but they present an excellent opportunity to coordinate with energy upgrades. By scheduling the room-in-roof insulation and solar panel installation to happen during the roof work, you'll save significantly on scaffolding costs and minimise disruption. We can help coordinate a single contractor to manage all the roofing-related work together. Estimated cost for roof repairs and Velux windows: £10,000 - £12,000 We strongly recommend coordinating it with Phase 1 measures.

Your room-in-roof is currently one of the most uncomfortable spaces in your home. The survey found minimal insulation in poor condition, and crucially, no insulation on the rafters above the sloped ceiling. This explains why the room is freezing in winter and unbearably hot in summer. The most effective approach is to insulate from above during your planned roof repairs. This involves installing rigid insulation panels between the rafters before the tiles go back on. If you're already having the roof repaired and new Velux windows installed, adding insulation from above is far more cost-effective now than returning later. You'll have the scaffolding up, the roof open, and a contractor on site. Doing it later would mean repeating much of this work. The work happens alongside your roof repairs, so there's minimal additional disruption. The main coordination point is ensuring your roofing contractor understands the insulation specification and can work with the energy efficiency requirements. We can take care of this. The room-in-roof will feel dramatically different. You'll have consistent temperatures year-round, much better comfort in both summer and winter, and lower heating bills. While the modelling shows modest improvements, the real-world comfort gain in this room will be substantial.

Your roof has good solar potential despite the planned Velux windows. We expect a a 4kW system can be split between the east and west elevations, which will generate around 3,400kWh of electricity per year. This covers a significant portion of a typical household's annual consumption. At current energy prices, you'll save around £730 per year on electricity bills. You'll also reduce your carbon emissions by approximately 450kg annually. Over the 25-year lifespan of the system, that's over £18,000 in savings (before accounting for possible future energy price increases). This is another measure that makes overwhelming sense to install during your roof work to save paying for scaffolding again and adding more disruption. The installer will need to notify your local electricity grid operator, which is standard procedure. The panels themselves require virtually no maintenance - just an occasional clean if they get particularly dirty. Most systems come with 25-year performance warranties. You'll see your electricity bills drop immediately. Many people find it satisfying to watch their generation meter and know they're powering their home with sunshine. On bright days, even in winter, you'll be generating useful amounts of electricity. We haven't included a battery in this phase because we want to keep your outdoor space available for a future heat pump. Once we know exactly where the heat pump will go, we can add a battery later. This also gives you time to see how much solar electricity you generate and how well it matches your usage patterns.

Your ground floor is uninsulated, with a well-ventilated crawlspace underneath. This can account for up to 30% of your home's heat loss. Cold floors make rooms feel uncomfortable even when the heating is on, and you're wasting energy heating air that's escaping through the floor. There are two main approaches. The traditional method involves lifting floorboards and installing insulation between the joists using rigid boards or mineral wool. This gives excellent results but requires moving furniture and potentially replacing floor coverings. The alternative is vapour-permeable spray foam insulation, which can be applied from below without lifting floorboards. This is less disruptive but requires a technical survey to check humidity levels in the crawlspace first. Our costs don't include any replacement flooring, which you'd need to factor in if you choose the first option. Whichever method you choose, there will be some disruption. The spray foam option is usually quicker and less invasive, but both approaches need careful installation to avoid moisture problems. We'll help you choose the right approach based on your specific situation. Your ground floor rooms will feel noticeably warmer, particularly first thing in the morning. You'll save around £75 per year on heating bills, and the rooms will be more comfortable at lower thermostat settings with the draughts eliminated.

Your kitchen extension and front flat roof are both uninsulated. Up to 20% of your home's heat can escape through an uninsulated flat roof, and these areas are likely making the rooms below colder than they need to be. Flat roof insulation can go above or below the roof deck. Insulation above (warm deck) keeps the entire roof structure warm and eliminates condensation risk, but it's more expensive because you need to re-roof. Insulation below (cold deck) is more affordable but requires careful attention to ventilation to prevent moisture problems. We've based our costs on cold deck insulation, which fits between and below the roof joists. This approach doesn't require re-roofing, making it significantly more cost-effective. The key is ensuring adequate ventilation above the insulation to manage moisture. This work is done from inside, so there's no scaffolding needed. The ceiling will be lowered slightly (typically 100-150mm), and the rooms will need to be empty during installation. If your kitchen ceiling height is already limited, this might influence whether you proceed with this measure. The rooms below will feel warmer in winter and cooler in summer. You'll save around £110 per year on heating bills, and you'll probably notice that these rooms heat up more quickly when you turn the heating on.

Your current kitchen door to the garage is wooden with about 50% single glazing. During the survey, we identified it as a significant source of heat loss and draughts, which makes the kitchen uncomfortable and wastes energy. A new insulated UPVC or composite door will transform this. Modern external doors have excellent thermal performance, proper seals, and draught-proofing. You'll notice the difference immediately in how the kitchen feels. This is a straightforward installation that typically takes half a day. The new door will need to fit the existing opening, though minor adjustments to the frame are normal. You'll choose the style, colour, and glazing pattern to suit your home. The kitchen will feel warmer and less draughty, particularly on windy days. You'll save around £50-60 per year on heating bills, but the real benefit is the improved comfort. The door will also provide better security and sound insulation.

After improving your home's insulation and airtightness, you need to ensure adequate ventilation to prevent moisture buildup and maintain good air quality. Your kitchen and bathroom currently have limited ventilation. We're recommending upgraded extractor fans for both rooms. In the kitchen, you'll need a cooker hood with proper ducting that extracts at 60 litres per second. In the bathroom, a continuous humidity-controlled fan will run at low speed most of the time and boost automatically when moisture levels rise. Better insulation means less air leakage through gaps, which is good for energy efficiency but means you need to manage ventilation deliberately. Without it, you risk condensation, damp, and mould problems, particularly in kitchens and bathrooms. This is straightforward installation work. The bathroom fan typically goes where an existing basic extractor is (if you have one), or in an external wall. The kitchen hood needs ducting to an external wall, which may require some making good afterwards. Your bathroom mirror won't steam up as much, and you'll avoid that damp feeling after showers. The kitchen will be less stuffy when you're cooking. These aren't glamorous upgrades, but they're essential for a healthy home.

This is where your plan makes the most significant carbon reduction. An air source heat pump can cut your heating emissions by around 3,400kg per year - that's over 80% of your current heating carbon footprint. Heat pumps are powered by electricity, which is currently more expensive per unit than gas, but heat pumps are more efficient so you should save around £120 per year. The real benefit is the dramatic carbon reduction. New heat pump tariffs are becoming available that offer cheaper electricity at specific times, which could roughly halve your heat pump running costs on the grid. That said, with the recommended solar installation, you'll be able to power the heating yourself when the sun is out. We're recommending this as your final phase for good reasons. Heat pumps work most efficiently in well-insulated homes, so completing your insulation upgrades first makes sense. It also means when we do the heat pump design work, we'll know exactly how much heat your improved home actually needs. The outdoor unit needs space outside. Inside, you'll likely need a couple of larger radiators. A proper heat pump assessment during the design stage will determine exactly what's required for your home. The government currently offers £7,500 towards heat pump installation if you're replacing fossil fuel heating. We estimate your heat pump install to cost £12,000 but thanks to the grant the cost to you is £4,500. To qualify, you need a valid EPC we which can obtain for you. Heat pumps work differently from boilers. They run for longer periods at lower temperatures, providing gentler, more consistent heat. Your home will feel more evenly warm, with fewer hot and cold spots. Some people report the outdoor units makes a quiet humming sound, this is barely audible with modern units which are much quieter than older models.